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Lavina Jahorina

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Just back from: Uzbekistan

Toby Lambert, February 20, 2018
Megan revelling in the beauty of the mosques and mausoleums of Uzbekistan © Megan Eaves

Megan revelling in the beauty of the mosques and mausoleums of Uzbekistan © Megan Eaves

Megan Eaves, Destination Editor for North Asia, recently returned from a trip to Uzbekistan.

Tell us more… I spent seven days travelling around Uzbekistan, one of the biggest travel drawcards in Central Asia. I had been to the region before, but never to Uzbekistan, so the aim of the trip was to see all of the country’s highlights in its main cities – the capital, Tashkent, as well as Bukhara and Samarkand – and to learn about its rich cultural heritage.

In a nutshell… If, like me, you have dreamed about seeing the Silk Road, Uzbekistan is the country that ticks all the boxes. Blue-domed mosques and incredible mosaics covering the outer walls of mausoleums and medressas (Islamic schools) define Uzbekistan’s cityscapes and hearken to a time when Silk Road trade through this region made it among the busiest and most important places on earth.

Dusk over an illuminated Registran Squaer, Uzbekistan

Dusk brings a whole new magic to Samarkand’s main square © Megan Eaves

Defining moment? Watching the sunset in the Registan – Samarkand’s famous main square, flanked by three tiled medressas. The blue hour set in and I could hardly capture the waning light as it softened over the enormous mosaic-covered domes. Hunger pangs set in and I was ready for dinner, as I started to set off the lights suddenly switched on, illuminating the entire square in the most magical way. I probably stayed for another hour after that trying to savour the moment.

Good grub? Uzbekistan’s food is hearty Central Asian fare that relies on a lot of meat, potatoes, dumplings and plov (the local pilau rice). The most surprising and welcome part of Uzbek cuisine were the incredible salads: beetroot and fresh tomato-and-cucumber salads were served at almost every sitting. Uzbek produce is beautiful thanks to its sunny climate.

Megan wearing a traditional Turkmen hat

No room for the real thing? A selfie will do the trick © Megan Eaves

Fridge magnet or better? Even if you don’t have room to bring home a huge, fuzzy Turkmen hat, you should at least get a photo of yourself wearing one.

You’d be a muppet to miss… Thousand-year-old Bukhara, which was at one time Central Asia’s holiest city. It’s a small and walkable town stuffed with ancient mosques, minarets and holy sites at every turn. Plus the old town is well preserved and is a complete maze – worth getting lost in the dusty back lanes.

Fave activity? Going for a wild swim in Aidarkul Lake. It’s way out in the northern desert of Uzbekistan and was totally empty when I went. Due to its high salt content, you can float around easily. On the day I was there, the sun was beating down and the water was warm. I could’ve stayed in all day.

An up-close details of a mosaic, Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan begs to be explored up-close © Megan Eaves

Quintessential experience? Taking photos of the incredible mosaics that adorn many of the country’s monuments. Close-ups of the Persian-inspired detailing on specific tiles, faraway shots that take in the magnificent colours and of course selfies of you in front of these amazing works of art. Don’t be shy!

Watch the interview

Megan Eaves travelled to Uzbekistan with support from Kalpak Travel (kalpak-travel.com). Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

Want more behind-the-scenes adventures? Find out what Picture Editor Claire Richardson got up to on her recent trip to Łódź, Poland.

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